Prada 2009 Crumpled will be in next Spring. Both Burberry and Prada must be listening to our inner souls. Clothes that can manage much and not show it, finally.

Etro 2009 Mix ‘n Match Patterns. This showed up in New York, London and Milan.

Jil Sander 2009 Suits that include shorts. Marc Jacobs showed this in New York too.

Fendi 2009 Lace. Both traditional and contemporary, lace continues as a means to offer texture, depth, and interest to an otherwise neutral or black color palette.

Optimism (more here).

Images Style.com

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Sometimes when things get rough it pays to just stay close to home. The events of last week were pretty intense, leaving me feeling fairly spent, both literally and figuratively speaking. How bout you?

So, today, especially with the weather being as sensational as it is, 83 and sunny, I took the dog, Miss Chloe, and a camera to visit the places in our fair city that are (and have been) under construction, for months now, in downtown St. Louis.

(The below, City Garden, is what the above will look like)

It’s hard to know if our downtown is experiencing a revival or a downturn…..there are sooo many lofts built (during a housing boom not so long ago, I’m sure) it’s mind boggling; but I will say not enough services by comparison or companies (read, jobs) to support the numbers of lofts available.*

(The above, the Old Post Office Plaza will look like the below when finished)

The Mayfair Hotel is on the back side of the Old Post Office Plaza and North of the Arcade Lofts. Roberts Towers, a 24 story 55 luxury condominium, is to be built next to the Mayfair.

Mayfair Hotel and Chloe

Construction for Roberts Towers and Old Post Office Plaza across from “The Old Post Office.”

Roberts Towers Site Plan
Arcade Lofts across from west side of Old Post Office Building (now holding offices, a Webster University Campus, St. Louis Library Express and a Pasta House restaurant).

There’s starting to be movement at the park construction sites but timing for when these sites will be complete is uncertain.

Ball Park Village (above) sits across from Busch Stadium, home of the St. Louis Cardinals and has been sitting there for awhile because a development company, Centene, backed out. There are new owners now and they hope to finish with the park next spring. Cardinals fans can look forward to restaurants, more parking, retail shops and services when done (plans below).

Cordish Development Company and the St. Louis Cardinals are 50-50 partners on the village. Retail and entertainment venues are expected to be finished in Spring/Summer of 2009 with office and residential spaces finished in 2010. (Cordish Ball Park Village page for more images)

So my question is whether or not St. Louis as a city understands that there is a potential “cratering” of the economy that could reverberate throughout the world? Speaking to a satellite office of one of our state senators, Claire McKaskill, Democrat Missouri. I’d say no. While I complained profusely to someone who was a regional director, she listened without saying anything nor offering anything close to what I would’ve hoped to be a statement of some kind that suggested that at least her office was aware of it and was about to bring jobs, businesses, and therefore a better economy to our state.

It didn’t come. If anything the woman’s obtuseness to the current situation left me surly not to mention discouraged. Whew! Where do they find some of these people? Or just maybe our Congressmen and women really are that sheltered and out of touch with what is going on.

One wonders. Next week, on October 2nd, there is to be an open house so to speak of the lofts available with special events and promotions at differing retailers/restaurants including a viewing of the vice presidential debates at the Robert Orpheum Theatre. Interesting timing. Will there be credit loosening up by then for people to get interested in buying one of these lofts? This program has been on the docket for about a month now. It’s either really good timing or really bad timing.

Robert Orpheum Theatre (sits alongside the Old Post Office Plaza opposite end of block from Mayfair and Roberts Towers).

Further investigation by going to Downtown St. Louis Partnership Programs website reveals that there is another $925.5 million slated for development in 2008 and 2009. The projects listed above are part of that as well as some other hotels and residential projects. The city is working with the Regional Commerce Growth Association and St. Louis’ Economic Council to create programs to further incentivize development. Mayor Francis Slay just rescued one of the largest companies, a law firm, with over 500 employees from moving out. I will say once Ballpark Village is finished that is slated to bring some 3,000 jobs to the area (not to mention taxes), but that won’t be until sometime in Spring of 2009.

Chloe in the fountain at Kiener Plaza.

What about you? Are you noticing improvements for your state or things going to pot or like I am noticing here, nothing but mixed messages?

*Update: I spoke with the Downtown St. Louis Partnership Program and was corrected and my comment about jobs to demand services. Turns out downtown St. Louis has the most jobs per area than any other in St. Louis, 90,000, and plans are on to attract a minimum of 10,000 more within a given period of time.

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Marni Spring 09 a welcome relief from the market’s irrational exuberance fallout.

Even with America’s greatest financial bailout since the Great Depression looming large over our heads, life goes on, thankfully for most of us, mercilessly for some of us.

Catwalks in Milan provided the backdrop for Wall Street’s theatre this week as well as Capital Hill’s. The contrast at times was eerie (just by virtue that the shows continued) and at other times, as we say in the biz, spot-on (as evidenced by Jil Sander, Fendi, Burberry, and Prada to name only a few).

The real question is, how will main street react to Wall Street’s reaction to Capital Hill’s reaction to main street’s reaction?

Burberry Spring 09 Arguably one of Christoper Bailey’s better collections to date.

If you think that’s ironic, consider this, Milan produced some of the more progressive fashion to hit the catwalks since, well, since the 80’s…..that other fabulously progessive time in our recent financial history.

If it’s true that fashion is a barometer of our times, does this mean that indeed next Spring’s wardrobes will find us on the path to recovery and financial prosperity?

We can only hope that our designers have indeed been able to divine that notion. Until then let’s just review the week, shall we? (pix and analysis to come…)

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It was date night for me Friday night. Me and PBS, since Bill Moyers had a great interview with 2 New York Times columnists about what happened with Wall Street’s meltdown and the author, Kevin Phillips, of a book, Bad Money, he is recommending as a must.

The bottom line after all of the I confess heavy thought processing is that who knows? But Phillips has been forecasting this for awhile and goes back as far as both the Clinton and Regan administrations to find fault with even today’s situation. His point being, mainly, that all along the way finance was something Washington found in favor and never popped the bubble to take the bitter pill.

Doesn’t much look like we will today either with a $700 billion bail out, but hey, I guess it’s better than taking the rest of the world off a cliff with us.

Needless to say when Casablanca came on I was thrilled and it found in me a total willingness to cast my fate to the Marrakesh winds for the night, along with Bogie and “Play It Again, Sam” Sam.

So much water over the bridge this season, so much from real to metaphoric I wax nostalgic for simpler days.

Since there are so many references to Morocco these days, I went in search of Casablanca still shots because I saw so much in the movie that I am seeing in production now, not the least of which was an incredible room divider seen in Rick’s Cafe Americain that had the most delicious fretwork. But it was the doors to Rick’s Cafe that really got me. Maryam Montague of MyMarrakesh blog fame has really brought to life the doors of the region: these big heavy wooden rounded doors (image by Maryam).

Sigh.

So, the stills I found from the movie (though fantastic) didn’t bring me much in the way of product relief (except Maryam’s door!) but did bring me a boatload full of good posters and trivia surrounding the movie along with some of the most famous quotes ever…..go visit. You won’t be disappointed. But better yet, get the DVD, now that you can’t afford to go to the movies.

It wasn’t a simple time in the movie, but somehow even with the corruption that existed in Casablanca (the movie’s title city), the protagonists emerge heroes and overcome their cynical and selfish motives to somehow rally around a cause greater than themselves. It’s pure poetry and a tonic for our times.

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In 1966, as a token of gratitude for American aid during World War II, the Republic of Austria donated 11 iconic Swarovski chandeliers to the world famous Metropolitan Opera House. In July, Swarovski removed the iconic chandeliers, shipped them back to Austria and refurbished each and every crystal. This process includes using the latest technology to replace over 50,000 custom-made crystals. They are currently being re-installed as we speak. The chandeliers will be unveiled at New York’s Metropolitan Opera House Opening Night Gala on September 22nd.

Interestingly too for the 125th Gala, Renee Fleming is the Soprano for the evening’s performance. She will sing excerpts from three of her signature roles: Violetta in ”La Traviata,” the title role in Massenet’s ”Manon” and the Countess in ”Capriccio.” With three costume changes the Met has hired designers John Galliano, Karl Lagerfield, and Christian LaCroix to create the costumes for each opera she performs.

To further the legacy of the Metropolitan Opera, the evening’s performance will be transmitted into Times Square as well as beamed into theatres around the world in HD (and rumor has it, those attending the performances in these theatres will be dressing up for the evening!).

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erdem spring 2009 london

I wanted to show you some spectacular vision from erdem, just because it follows the lace look in a lovely way.

Then there was Luella whose thoughts ran a different direction but no less darling. I’d say look out Vivenne Westwood, you’ve got some competition.

duro olowu spring 2009

Crazy print mixing is something else so far seen on London’s runways. And while at first it’s a lot to take in, once you’ve made that adjustment, it’s fun (and a take on patchwork).

It’s too early to give anything more concise…..

(images courtesy Style.com)

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Mixing more than a few of my favorite things, art, fashion, sculpture, and exotic paper….well, you can’t get much better than this. And, I guess that’s what the folks at Kate’s Paperie in Soho, New York also understood when they asked Zoe Bradley to create one of her, one of a kind window installations for them.

Just in time for New York’s fashion week, Kate’s Paperie unveiled Ms. Bradley’s installation with an opening reception September 5th (I am so sorry I missed it, Ms. Bradley was on hand to answer questions!). Ms. Bradley’s installation, named “Hanging Japanese Gardens” is made with luxurious Yuzen papers and can be viewed ongoing at Kate’s Paperie 72 Spring Street store in Soho, New York. Kate’s Paperie is legendary for their specialty papers and journals, it’s a match made in paper heaven.

Ms. Bradley’s other clients include Donna Karan, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges (pictured above), among others, but getting her start with Alexander McQueen producing one off pieces of clothing and hats made out of paper is what convinced her that creating art from paper was her trademark. The rest is history. Her website is chock full of incredible past exhibitions, editorial works, window installations, and fashions all out of paper.

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Ralph Lauren Spring 2009 (images Style.com)

Given our economic times, it’s a wonder New York’s Fashion Industry stepped up to the plate at all. But, it did. And with some surprisingly good results.

During the past several seasons the fashion shows both here and in Europe have left many of us out in the cold, wondering where the buzz went that we all became accustomed to getting from devouring the news of the season’s latest runway fashions. New sustainable practice in business in some countries are calling for less consumerism (well they got that, out of necessity rather than environmentalism). The markets are shifting from the United States to emerging markets such as Brazil, Russia and China and designers, especially the European designers with couture houses, created their wares for those shores more lucrative than America is right now. Can you blame them? People have to run a business.

But interestingly enough, all of this uncertainty and dark times seemed to have galvanized the designers to do what we need them to do and that is to create. Some of the progress isn’t as groundbreaking as say Nicolas Ghesquière (Spring 2008, pictured left) of Balenciaga’s famed floral warrior w/matching boots silhouette (and stitching like you see on baseballs), but rather it was the type of progress that lays the groundwork for those groundbreaking collections and beautifully (almost like the old days when fashion was grand) in varying levels. That’s what made New York’s fashion week so delish for me, it wasn’t readily apparent what the results actually were.

That said, this is my beat on what New York’s Fashion Week fostered (in summary form, of course):

1) Fashion’s Old Guard shows signs of breaking with Park Avenue Socialites.
-i.e., Ralph Lauren & Oscar de la Renta

Style.com says Ralph Lauren (above) is preparing for his member audience to be going to Dubai….with a modern Casablanca flair to his entire collection, I’d say this is spot on, not that the American or any market for that matter will need to go there as an excuse to wear his clothes. And, that’s the beauty of it. Like one reader, E.Frantz, on OTR said, “I am [too] amazed that after decades of witnessing essentially the same thing, I’m still enchanted.” We’ll second that E.Frantz. (I’ll take this moment to also note that Turbans were a backstory trend to more than a few of the collections.)

Oscar de la Renta (above) has been around a long time and caters to the philanthropic solicalite, so whether the socialite is redefining herself or Oscar is doing it for her, these looks go way beyond the social xray stereotype. I’m no Park Avenue type and I can see me wearing these for any number of occasions. Not to mention how youthful and unpretentious these looks are.

2) The younger designers have staked out their territory with clarity and purpose, dolling up their youth market at the same time.
Put another way, both are Coming of Age: the Designers and Their Markets.
-i.e., Thakoon Panichgul, Narcisco Rodriguez, and Jonathan Saunders (in order)

3) American Sportswear has been Revived in Fresh, Smart and Not So Retro Ways.
-i.e., Michael Kors (top 3 images below) and Issac Mizrahi (bottom three)

Let me just say right here that Mizrahi’s use of pockets for his silhouettes is sheer genius! (Note to designers: women need pockets)

4) Modern Design Reinvents the Classics, Elevating these designer labels to World Class

-i.e., Marc Jacobs, Ralph Rucci, Calvin Klein

marc jacobs

chado ralph rucci

calvin klein

This was/is by no means an exhaustive report of the Spring 2009 New York Fashion Week Runway Collections, but just enough to wet your appetite. There were a number of trends within trends (and you thought trends were dead) that will apply to home furnishings, stationery, craft, and the decorative accessory category. If you would like the full report on CD, I have that available; just let me know by either calling me at 314-918-0201 or sending me an email at kim@trendcites.com . London, Milan and Paris are coming up next week, so the best is yet to come!

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Patterns In Design, Art, and Architecture by Petra Schmidt (Editor), Annette Tietenberg (Editor), Ralf Wollheim (Editor).

I do like coffee table books and this may be one, but one I’d recommend.

In starck contrast to a contemporary and minimalist movement came the New Baroque movement. Flourishes, leafy patterns, stripes, polka dots, and pattern all appear on bedheads, wall papers, lamp shades, chairs or entire rooms. This book shows how new looks at old ways can produce fresh alternatives to the minimalist movements.

Using examples of contemporary work by internationally renowned designers such as Tord Boontje, Michael Lin, Olaf Nicolai and Sauerbruch & Hutton, the diversity of colours, shapes and applications are laid out before the reader, illustrating the impact and influence of technical innovations such as laser engraving and digital milling on patterns and our perception of them.

Often humorous, very colorful, and rarely plain the movement may be showing signs of maturity but I think it’s always important to see where we’ve been to also know where we are going. Not to mention that the technology factor they bring out has been a tremendous feature to this movement and is probably just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what we will be able to accomplish as a consequenc of new technologies.

The book is available in both hardbook and paperback at amazon.

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Prada created styles for Fall 08 that let us look at lace in new ways. (image style.com)

Furniture makers/designers are following suit in some small and not so small ways.

Aries side table CB2.

MISS LACY Progetto di Philippe Starck.

Reflections On My Grandmother collection from Nonesiste in Zona Tortona’s Nhow Hotel.

Even the architects are getting into it.

Architect Nobuhiro Nakamura of A-Asterisk has completed Leafy Shade, an interior design for an office building in Shanghai, China.
Dezeen.

I’ve been pondering this preponderance of lace for awhile now at the same time wondering what this really says….for one at least with respect to furniture and interior surfaces, I’d say it’s technology and that we aren’t living solid lives anymore…things are breaking up but in beautiful ways. Fabrics? Same thing, but it’s a way to evoke the old and the new at the same time which is very much how we are functioning these days. That’s good, keeping what works but using it in new and creative ways.

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